Your Bunny Shopping List!
This is some information on basic rabbit supplies to get you started on the road to responsible rabbit ownership. Each individual adoption is different however, and we will be happy to discuss specifics for your situation.
Initial set-up:
Caging: There is a variety of rabbit-safe housing available. Please visit our caging page to learn about our recommendations.
Litter box(es): The bigger the better! Where possible, rubbermaid under-the-bed boxes are a great choice. They are more economical than commercial cat pans, are big enough that even a digger keeps most of the litter in the box, and provides enough space to place hay at one end, encouraging litter box use. Bunnies will use a litter box with a little training, but they do not share a cat's urge to dig, and thus do not seek out a box. You may want to start with multiple litter boxes to increase your chances of success right off the bat!
Rabbit-safe litter: DO NOT USE PINE OR CEDAR! These can be deadly to a rabbit. Also, do not use commercial clay or clumping cat litter. These too can cause serious and deadly health issues with your rabbit. Bunny Magic recommends Yesterday's news, or Carefresh, both paper-based litters. Carefresh is what we use. It is very absorbent, has good odor control and is virtually dust free. It is also easy to clean up from the litter pan!
Food bowl: Ceramic dishes are best--they are the hardest to for a bun to tip and toss. If you do choose plastic, do not choose the ones with a lip, look for the smooth sides. Bunnies seem to think their dishes are great play toys!
Water bowl or bottle: It has been our experience that rabbits go off a bottle sooner than they will a bowl and we recommend a bowl. If you choose a bottle, make sure it has a big enough tube for the bunny to get adequate water! Whatever you choose, make sure to keep it full of fresh water!
Healthy rabbit food: Look for the lowest fat and highest fiber you can find, but no less than 18% fiber. Rabbits over 1 year of age fare much better on a timothy-based pellet such as the Bunny Basics/T offered by Oxbow Hay (www.oxbowhay.com). These pellets are 29% fiber! Do not purchase the pellets with all the "extras". While this may look appealing to you, it is not healthy for the rabbit. You also do not need to purchase commercial rabbit treats. These are just junk food. If you do wish to treat your rabbit, a raisin, a small shredded wheat bran biscuit or a cut-up carrot makes a better choice!
Hay: Unless you have a baby rabbit, alfalfa hay should be reserved for special treat status. There is too much calcium and not enough fiber for rabbits over 6 months of age. Timothy Hay is the most widely available alternative hay in pet stores. Oxbow Hay and other internet providers, and if you are lucky, your local farmers, may also provide Oat hay, Orchard grass, and other tasty hay varieties. Rabbits need hay free-fed so make sure you buy enough.
Toys: If you took home a new kitten and gave it nothing to scratch on, what is it to do with its natural scratching instincts but satisfy them by scratching on your couch. Same with bunnies and chewing. Set them up for success right from the start. This link to Adventures in Toyland by the San Diego HRS offers wonderful options for toys. Other references include More than Just a Chew Stick by the HRS. We will be happy to share our experiences as well!
Fresh Vegetables: Veggies and Hay are the most important parts of the bunny diet. Dark Leaf Lettuce, Romaine Lettuce, Kale, Cilantro, Basil, Chicory, Dandelion Greens, Watercress, Collard Greens, Parsley, Broccoli and Carrots: These are just some of the choices you should offer your rabbit. Do not offer Iceberg Lettuce, cabbage, beans or peas! We will provide you with a full list upon adoption, or click here for a more complete list of possibilities.
A rabbit-proofed play area: Rabbits need at least two hours of exercise outside of their cage daily! It is very important to provide a safe environment for them--think toddler! This link to suggestions offered by HRS provides lots of good assistance! Click here for bunny-proofing tips!
Love and Patience!
You will also need:
White vinegar: excellent for cleaning behind bunny accidents in the first few days, and also to clean calcium deposits from the litter box! A little spray goes a long way!
Nail clippers: self-explanatory. We will give you a nail clipping demonstration upon adoption!
Grooming tools: It is necessary to keep buns from ingesting loose hairs during their grooming. They cannot throw up a hair ball like a cat does, and it can seriously impact their systems. Any of the brushes or combs that are safe for cats and kittens are a good choice. Long-Haired rabbits may need different tools, and these will be discussed with you upon adoption.
More toys: Just like children, bunnies become bored with the same toys all the time. Have a nice selection to rotate through your bunny's play area in order to keep the appeal level high!
Pet carrier: Invest in a carrier that opens from the top! This can be critical when trying to extract a rabbit who is stressed! It is not unknown that bunnies can suffer broken legs in being pulled out the door of a carrier when they are fighting to stay in!
A qualified rabbit veterinarian: This can save your rabbit's life! Don't wait until your bunny is in crisis to find a vet. Many cat and dog vets will refuse to see a rabbit. Those that do often don't have the level of experience necessary to react to rabbit illnesses. Make sure your vet is trained in exotics, and rabbits in particular! We are happy to provide information about vets in the Washington DC/Baltimore area who see rabbits regularly.
As we said, these are just the basics. Your situation will have its own unique qualities and we are happy to discuss them with you to assist you in providing the most ideal home possible for your bunny!